How To Replace Old Windows

When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, beginning laid optics on their 1897 Shingle-style dwelling, they savage in beloved with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including woods paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace.

The windows were some other story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for depression-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old Firm Television receiver's fall 2007 projection in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH full general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were sound and foursquare, Tom could utilize insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen'south Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, low-eastward insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more than thing to love almost their old house. Hither's a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types of Replacement Windows

Dissimilar total-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from every bit narrow as 11 ½ inches to as wide equally 68 inches, and come in forest, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad wood, and aluminum-clad wood.

At that place are 3 basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom constitute on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, and so the sash are slipped in betwixt.

For these to piece of work, the existing window frame must exist level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a prepare-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes chosen a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is and then attached to the old side jambs. Considering you're adding new jambs and liners, the drinking glass area will be slightly smaller than it was earlier.

Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the merely pick when the former window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening downwardly to its crude framing, within and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

The most of import step in the window-replacement process happens long before installation solar day. It's when you measure out the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you lot order a replacement unit of measurement that'southward the right size. Hither'south how to practise information technology.

Start by measuring the within width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, eye, and bottom. Write downward the smallest of the 3 measurements.
Adjacent, measure the frame'due south meridian from the elevation of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in iii places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Once again, record the smallest measurement.
Cheque the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the aforementioned. If the frame is out of square by one/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. Anything more than may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is so out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't wait right, y'all'll need a full-frame replacement.
Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a selection of sill angles.

iii. Take Out the Sash

The first footstep is to remove the old sash from the window frame. In nigh cases, you lot'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If you lot're planning to reinstall the stops, do this job carefully; they break easily.)
Next, accept out the parting beads to gratis the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't be any chaplet. Only press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forwards.
Then pin one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Man Prying Off Jamb Liners For Window Replacement

If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a apartment bar to pry them free. In the case of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
Get out the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Man Using Flat Bar To Pry Off Jamb Liners

Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch any holes or cracks with an exterior-class forest putty, such equally the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
Then sand the jambs smooth, and prime and paint the surfaces.

6. Remove the Old Sash Weights

If the original sash weights are yet in place, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep For Insulation

Man Uses Drill To Prep For Window Replacement Insulation

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it'south more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

Brand sure to utilize only low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
Commencement, pull out whatever existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
Then bore 3/8-inch-diameter holes, ane near each end and one in the middle, down through the sill and upwards through the caput jamb.

viii. Spray in the Foam

Man Sprays Foam Into Drilled Holes For Window Replacement Preparation

Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until information technology begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, but yous tin can do the same job with foam from a tin can, like Dow'due south Groovy Stuff.)
Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the excess to harden for at least 6 hours, then break or cutting it off flush before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Man Caulks Along Windowsill For Window Replacement

In preparation for installing the window, utilise an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the exterior casings or to the bullheaded stops on the elevation and sides of the frame. Also utilise two continuous beads of caulk along the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

Working from inside the room, fix the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, and so tip it up into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.

eleven. Fasten It Loosely

Hold the window in identify with one two-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The spiral should exist in just far enough to allow the window to operate.
Shut and lock the sash.

12. Shim as Necessary

Adjust the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the infinite and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
Measure the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the aforementioned. When the window is square, screw it in place through the predrilled holes.
To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim backside the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim.
Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

xiii. Caulk, Prime number and Paint

Man Stands In Front Of Window Replacement To Find Gaps

From the exterior, measure the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Make full gaps less than 1/iv inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Anything wider must start exist stuffed with foam-rubber capitalist rod.
On the inside, fill any gaps effectually the window with minimally expanding foam.
Cease up past reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
So prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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